The ancient site of Termessos
The ancient site of Termessos lies in the hinterland of Antalya, amid mountains of luxuriant vegetation, a steep valley of which it occupies, in the heart of the Güllük Dağı park. Although the ruins to be discovered are sometimes hard to read, the beauty of the site, the necropoles and the arrival at the theatre make the discovery of Termessos an unforgettable experience. The exceptional setting and the beauty of the site make it one of the most spellbinding sites in Turkey.
Practical information:
The site of Termessos lies in the Taurus Mountains (1,000 metres above sea level), 35 km north-west of Antalya. Take the D650 road that links Antalya to Isparta, then turn onto the E87 towards Korkuteli / Termessos.
GPS coordinates of the Termessos national park: N36.988220, E30.467670
Large car park, 9 km after the entrance to the park, at the start of the archaeological route.
Admission to the sites is charged (the national park plus the site of Termessos).
Open every day. From April to October, 9.00 am to 7.00 pm. From November to March, 9.00 am to 5.00 pm. Small restaurant at the entrance to the park, not always open.
For the visit it is necessary to wear good shoes, at least trainers, and to take a sufficient quantity of water, especially in strong heat, as well as something to eat. As the site is on a mountainside, the visit requires a physical effort. Allow a minimum of 3 hours for the visit, but 4 or 5 hours will be needed to explore the site more thoroughly in comfort.
History of Termessos:
The site of Termessos had a very ancient occupation. The town, founded by a tribe of Pisidia that was settled in the region, is mentioned by Homer in the Iliad. The town therefore seems already to have existed well before the year 1000 BC; it was then part of the Hittite Empire.
Termessos then passed under the influence of the Phrygians, of the Lydians, then of the Persians, although the city seems to have kept a strong autonomy. This city, with a reputation for combativeness, well protected by its surroundings, thus resisted Alexander the Great, who tried in vain to conquer the town in 334 BC.
On the death of Alexander the Great, Termessos fell under the control of one of his generals; the town, while remaining very independent, gradually became Hellenised.
When the Romans conquered the region in the 2nd century BC, Termessos became their faithful ally, which earned it the right to keep a large measure of independence within the empire. Its status and its strategic position assured it a great prosperity, which allowed it to build its monuments.
The town remained an important city until the 4th century AD; it became a bishopric and took part in the Christianisation of the region.
It was in 518 that the town suffered an earthquake that ravaged the town and deprived it of the aqueduct that supplied it with water. There followed an epidemic of plague during the years 541 to 543, which hastened the abandonment of the town, which was never reoccupied. This abandonment is the reason for its preserved state, although it is very ruined.
Worth a visit:
From the car park you will discover a portico, the remains of the temple of Artemis and of Hadrian (no. 7 on the map of the site).
Then head for the Royal Road, the start of the route. Take it to the left, towards the North necropolis and the tomb of the lions (no. 6 on the map of the site), so called because of the bas-reliefs that decorate it. Other monumental tombs, sometimes decorated, are situated in this area.
Retrace your steps by the Royal Road in order to begin the climb towards the heart of the ancient town. You will pass various ruins, including defensive elements of the town, until you reach the gate of the town and the ramparts (no. 14 on the map of the site).
Shortly afterwards you reach a fine group of buildings, comprising the walls of the baths and of the gymnasium, well preserved. Niches arranged along the whole length housed statues (no. 15 on the map of the site).
Opposite this building, a set of ruins that corresponded to a porticoed street. Columns are found there, as well as elements with inscriptions.
Continue the visit in order to reach the theatre (no. 20 on the map of the site).
The theatre looks out onto a striking mountain landscape! The view from the theatre is one of the most remarkable viewpoints we know! Opposite, you discover Mount Solymos, which gave its name to the inhabitants of Termessos, the Solymians.
Come back towards the agora of the town (no. 21 on the map of the site), which presents a structure typical of this place of trade and of politics. This square was paved and gave access to the most important places of the town.
Opposite the agora, to the south-east, you will find the walls, 10 metres high and of ashlar, of the bouleuterion, the building where the assembly that governed the town met. It seems also to have served as an auditorium for poetry and theatre. Its amphitheatre shape is typical. The space has not been cleared, but excavations have revealed the presence of seating as well as pieces of polychrome marble, indicating that the place must have been richly decorated.
Two stoas (covered galleries) closing the agora are still present on the east and north sides (no. 19 on the map of the site). Inscriptions indicate that they were given to the town by Attalus, king of Pergamon, for the first, and by Osbaras, an inhabitant of the town, for the second.
In the immediate vicinity of the agora, you can still explore the remains of 4 temples, those dedicated to Zeus and to Artemis still having walls standing. Of another temple, also dedicated to Artemis, only the platform and bas-reliefs remain, but it seems to be the largest on the site. These various temples date from the Roman period of the town.
A heroon (no. 23 on the map of the site), a small building dedicated to a hero or to a divinity, also borders the agora. You will also find on the spot 5 openings giving access to large cisterns used to store water.
Continue your walk towards the heights in order to discover the South necropolis. This necropolis is an impressive accumulation of monumental sarcophagi, some overturned, others open… earthquakes and looters having passed that way. This walk amid the forest of sarcophagi is a real adventure!
You will probably also have noticed, at the summit, a watchtower (fire watch). The watchmen will probably, moreover, have made large gestures to invite you to come and see them. If you have the courage and the time to continue the climb, go there to discover the superb viewpoint, which reaches as far as the sea, and to quench your thirst, the watchmen thus rounding out their month’s pay.
On the way back, at the agora, turn off towards the tomb of Alcetas (from point 25 on the map, follow the path towards the top of the map). Alcetas was one of the generals of Alexander the Great. On his death, when his empire was divided, Alcetas was one of the claimants to the throne of Asia Minor. The other claimant, Antigonus, came to fight him with his army. Alcetas took flight and obtained the protection of the town of Termessos, which did not dare, however, to oppose its powerful enemy, and promised to hand Alcetas over. He preferred to kill himself, and his body was delivered to his enemies, who left him without burial after having profaned his body. The young inhabitants of Termessos, ashamed of this treachery, decided to build a tomb and to bury Alcetas with honours. His tomb is thus adorned with a bas-relief depicting a warrior on horseback. This tomb is dated to the 4th century BC, which corroborates the hypothesis that this tomb does indeed belong to Alcetas.
Retrace your steps and, at the gymnasium, turn left towards the West necropolis and the cliffs. There you will discover fine rock-cut tombs, with sarcophagi, arches and other decoration carved in the rock. (This route corresponds to the path linking point 16 to point 7 on the map).
Continue on your way as far as the car park.