The ancient site of Phaselis
The ancient site of Phaselis is among the most charming and pleasant to visit on the coast. Although the ruins are not the most interesting in the region, its setting, among the pines, and its small beaches make it a site that we strongly recommend. It is a chance to visit ancient ruins that are easy of access and to end the walk with a swim in the sea!
Practical information:
The site of Phaselis lies 60 km south of Antalya on the D400 road that links Antalya to Finike, passing through Kemer. A few kilometres after the town of Camyuva, leave the D400 at the sign indicating Phaselis. After about 2 km, a minor road will take you to the car park at the entrance to the ancient site.
GPS coordinates of the car park: N36.525775, E30.551312
Large car park at the start of the route.
You can also reach the site by boat; many possibilities are offered in the hotels or the marinas of the coastal towns (Antalya, Kemer and the others...).
Admission is charged. Avoid visits at the weekend; the site and the beaches are then often crowded.
Open every day. From 1 April to 30 September, 8.00 am to 7.00 pm. From 1 October to 31 March, 8.00 am to 6.00 pm.
In the high season you will be able to use a refreshment stall on the site, but always plan to have water for the visit in case the stalls are closed. Remember to bring swimming costumes as well as plastic sandals for going into the water, which is rocky and sometimes has sea urchins.
Allow 2 hours for the visit to the site, not counting the time to enjoy the beach.
History of Phaselis:
The history of Phaselis goes back to the 7th century BC, when colonists from Rhodes founded the town in 690 BC. Legend has it that the ground of the future city was bought in exchange for dried fish. The town was part of Lycia, a region of which Phaselis occupied the easternmost part; it was its main harbour. The town and the region were subject to Persian and Greek influences, but remained relatively independent, even if they gave allegiance to one faction or the other according to the period. The town prospered thanks to the trade in timber and in roses for perfume, exported to Greece, to Syria and even to Egypt.
The city did not have a very good reputation in the Greek world; it was accused of practising piracy on occasion, and is said to have offered citizenship to foreigners for a simple payment, thus attracting disreputable people.
Phaselis was conquered by Alexander the Great in 333 BC, then passed under the rule of the Ptolemies when his empire was divided. The Seleucids, another regional power, gained the upper hand before giving way to the kingdom of Rhodes, which lost the town; it regained its independence and joined the Lycian confederacy around 150 BC. Phaselis fell into the hands of pirates until the Romans took possession of the region in 42 BC.
The town prospered during the Roman and Byzantine period; the monuments that one discovers today date from this time, notably those built in honour of the emperor Hadrian, who visited the town in 129.
From the 8th century, the attacks of the Arabs, who made numerous incursions into the region, brought about the decline of the town, which was no more than the shadow of itself when it fell under the rule of the Seljuks in the 12th century.
The town was then abandoned, probably also because of destruction by earthquakes.
Worth a visit:
If you arrive by land, the first thing you discover is the Roman aqueduct, of which fine sections remain. Head straight towards the sea through the ruins of former houses.
You arrive at the edge of the first 2 beaches, which correspond to the sites of 2 of the ancient Roman harbours of the town, separated by a narrow rocky strip. The one on the right, well sheltered and showing traces of quays, is the former military harbour.
Then take the main street of Phaselis. This paved avenue, 25 metres wide, leads to the third harbour of the town. It is bordered by high pavements of 4 steps that gave access to the porticoes and buildings of the street.
On the right, stop at the remains of the baths of the town. You will still see there the different rooms as well as parts of the heating system that passed through the floor. Marble slabs give an idea of the wealth of the place. The aqueduct situated just behind supplied the baths.
Beside it, an agora, the place of political and economic gathering of the city, still shows elements of mosaics on the ground. To the north, the remains of a Byzantine basilica.
Opposite the agora, the principal monument of Phaselis, the theatre. Built according to the Greek tradition, set against a hill, it could hold about 1,500 people in the 20 rows of seating. The stage wall is heavily ruined. The presence of trees around and in the theatre gives it a great deal of charm.
Come back onto the main street and continue on your way. On your right, other agoras, built at different periods, and on your left the probable remains of shops and of pedestals that must have held statues. The street ends with the ruins of Hadrian's Gate, built for the emperor's visit. Only the bases are still in place, but many carved blocks of stone are scattered around. The gate gives access to the South Harbour and its beach. If you arrive by boat, the landing is usually made here.
You can end your visit with a swim on one of the gravel beaches of the site. Besides the pleasure of a bathe after a hot visit, you will have the chance to take it in an ancient harbour!
